My neighbor Birdie, who is long and lean and blonde and used to be married to a professional tennis player who was by all accounts quite a Man About Town, and has the calves to show for it, is standing in her garden at about 7 o'clock, staring into the middle distance where there is a red and yellow Little Tikes Ride On Car abandoned under an apple tree. It's the hottest day of the year, according to the tabloids. She has one hand up to her forehead to shield the sun and she suddenly waves her hand in front of her face dismissively.
"I can't even look at that car" she says. "Get that awful thing out of my sight! I got into it the day before yesterday to impress a grandchild and I got completely stuck."
She has kindly walked out of the house, despite doctor's orders to stay in bed, to bid us goodbye because she is kind and she has very good manners. It's the day after a back operation for something I can only describe as like kissing spine in horses. She should be taking it easy and eating soft foods, or something like that, but she has insisted that we come over to visit and cheer her up, and so we have, with bowls of bloody mulberries and purple French beans.
We'd arrived to find her propped up in front of the evening news in an elegant, butter yellow short-sleeved linen blouse and a pair of shorts. The dog, an almost human Irish terrier, sits next to her and raises her head happily when my whippet walks in. They run off together, not bothering to use door but leaping on to the sofa and straight out of the sash window into the garden, like Romeo and Juliet. Birdie's legs are smooth and brown. She's smiling. "Let me show you my scar!" she says, like a seven year old boy, struggles to her feet and proudly lifts her shirt to display a wide white bandage with some dried blood on it. "Rather neat, don't you think?" I admire it dutifully and make the kind of noises I think one is supposed to make when staring at a wound. The room is cosy, full of jolly oil paintings by Birdie, comfortable shabby chic chairs and sofas, tartan wool rugs, the ubiquitous drinks trolley that might fit well in Palm Beach.
"God, it's hot" she says. But she hasn't given up to it as I have. I'm grumpy and not enjoying the weather. Spain is supposed to be this hot. Sardinia is supposed to swelter. England is not. I'm completely off-kilter and not being brave at all. Birdie is the opposite. She's This is the Englishness we need, I think, the keeping calm and buggering gently on as if nothing is wrong. This is drinking a gin and tonic and adding an extra cube of ice as a nod to the weather.
"Not very impressed with the eclipse. Were you?" she says. "Bit of an anticlimax. Thought the skies would go black." "No, we were only at 91%." I replied. "But how on earth do you know that, you clever thing?" "Oh, I don't know - Google?"
"We lay on the grass and looked at the meteors last night." I say. "How extraordinary. That's awfully woo-woo," she says. "Come to think of it, I'd rather like to do that. James! James! Do you think we can lie out on the lawn tonight at midnight to watch the meteors?" "Darling, you've just had a back operation. It's probably not the best idea." "Hmm" she pouted, charmingly.
Her husband, who is an army man, a guards man in fact, who rides horses and wears a rather rakish bearskin hat, is in the kitchen in a gingham pinny, peeling mushrooms, and about to put a chicken in the oven for dinner.
"James is awfully good," she says. She lowers her voice conspiratorially, "I mean he hasn't put the chicken *in* yet, but he's here cooking for me, his invalid wife. I am lucky."
"I want to live by the sea" I say. "Oh you mustn't leave," she says, "we've finally found neighbors! No, you really mustn't leave."
I describe my various sojourns to places on the south coast. The brilliant idea I had of going to West Wittering on a Saturday morning in August in the hottest year on record. How there were three or four football pitch sized fields full of parked cars, camper vans, caravans, tables and chairs, and a whole array of picnic items. How the whippet who hadn't encountered spits and bars and sand dunes before, flung himself into a pool of sea water mistaking it for terra firma and sunk quickly.
"Norfolk is a good place to live," I say. "Interesting, Bohemian people, good food, artists, potters, writers, beaches, not too many tourists. And Holkham."
"But you never *get* there," says Birdie. "I mean I went there once with Andrew, my first husband, in his little convertible and we were driving for hours! Hours and hours. I couldn't believe how long we were driving for. Does it actually exist? Do you actually ever get to Norfolk? Maybe it's an imaginary place made up by people. It could be."
I've brought her a t-shirt from Pam Gregory, mostly to make her laugh. She's an avid Telegraph reader, not quite a Reformer, but awfully close. It says boldly on the front "an ever-expanding consciousness of love." "But what on earth does that mean?" she says, quite amiably. I don't bother to explain.
Birdie has lightness of being. It's a marvelous thing that some of the more fortunate English upper classes possess. It's a way of not taking life too seriously. To feel deep things but never to say them out loud. To feel that it rather dull to complain and weak to express any kind of emotion other than delight, except if it's related to an animal. (Because you can tell dogs everything.) My mother had a friend exactly like this and I'm reminded of her, my adopted godmother, who was naughty and lighthearted, and silly quite often, and so not like any other grown up we knew. In fact, she was more of a child than a grown up. Always a smudge of red lipstick, always a grin, always an immaculate white stock, velvet hunt cap, a polished silver hipflask inherited from her grandmother who hunted sidesaddle with the Bicester, out hunting. And lots of very naughty stories deemed absolutely inappropriate for children that she would share with us liberally and with relish. We rode together and she would encourage me and my pony to jump enormous tree trunks scattered across Northchurch Common. I was never afraid when she was around.
Birdie told me in the first ten minutes of meeting her, after a glass of wine, "I'm really rather right wing." We were in my garden having a drink before Sunday lunch. Such a brilliantly Tourette'sy type thing to say to someone you hardly know. I looked her in the eye, smiled broadly, and said without a hesitation "Well, I'm really rather left wing so I'm sure we'll be the best of friends." And we both laughed.
We walk back down our little lane, aimlessly picking blackberries as we go. The whippet walks slowly and close to the hedge where there is a little shade because it really is awfully hot. My mind is stuck on an image of a beautiful tall woman fighting to get out of a child's car. "I think Birdie has learned how to live lightly." I say. I don't really know what this means, but it feels as if I think too much and feel things too much and I want to be more like Birdie, the way she looks at the world. What's the point of being eccentric, if you can't amuse people? I know I'm getting very serious about everything. He hums at me, the hm-mm hum he does when he wants me to know that he's paying attention, but can't really be bothered to engage. We keep walking, with the setting sun on the horizon on our right, then the river, the parched and ochre-colored hayfield, the massive oak where the rooks congregate, the hedge, the blackberries, the whippet, us.

